Six hair relaxers from CC Hair and Beauty arranged on a plain light background

How to choose the right hair relaxer strength and type for your hair

Start with your hair, not the box

Relaxer boxes usually say Fine, Regular, Normal, Mild or Super. Those words describe the hair the formula was made for, not how straight the result will be. Picking a stronger relaxer than your hair needs is the most common reason for over-processing, so it pays to work through a few questions before you buy.

1. How does your hair behave when wet?

Fine strands feel thin between your fingers and process quickly. Medium or normal hair is the most common and sits in the middle. Coarse, wiry or resistant hair feels thick, springs back fast and usually needs a stronger formula to loosen at all. If you are unsure, assume you are one step milder than you think.

2. Full head or retouch?

A first-time relaxer is applied to the whole length. After that, you only process the new growth at the roots. Overlapping relaxer onto previously straightened hair is what causes breakage at the line of demarcation. Some products are made specifically for that root application.

3. How does your scalp react?

If your scalp stings, flakes or feels tender during processing, look for a formula described as being for sensitive scalps rather than simply dropping to a milder strength.

No-lye and lye: what the labels mean

No-lye kits are mixed from two parts, usually a creme and an activator, and are often described as gentler on the scalp. Lye-based cremes come ready to use and are more common in professional settings. Neither is automatically better. Whichever you choose, read and follow the instructions supplied with that specific product, including strand testing, timing and the neutralising step. Never mix instructions from one brand with the product of another.

Examples from our range

These are included to show how the categories differ, not as a ranking.

Before you buy

Decide on strength first, then formula type, then kit size. If your hair has been coloured, bleached or recently processed, get professional advice before relaxing. Aftercare matters too: follow the conditioning and neutralising guidance printed with your chosen relaxer, as these vary between brands.

You can see the full range on our relaxers collection page. Please check availability before travelling to a shop. If you order online for Click & Collect, wait for your ready-to-collect notification before setting off.

Ask us

CC Hair and Beauty has three shops: Chapeltown (LS7), Roundhay (LS8) and Leeds City Centre on New York Street. In store we offer colour matching, wig try on and product advice. You can also email info@cchairandbeauty.com or call 0113 249 5562.